Entertainments | Restaurant Reviews | Leamington Rendezvous
Leamington Rendezvous, Warwick Street, Leamington
IT may not look like much - in fact from the outside it may look more like a gambling arcade, but the Rendezvous has its share of hidden charms.
A smallish, squarish restaurant, the atmosphere isn’t exactly refined, despite some hard work with the lighting, but if its plain, it’s definitely friendly and staffed by people who want you to be there and want you to enjoy yourself.
Crisp and palate preparing seaweed should be introduced across all nationalities of cooking, the best way to start a meal I can think of.
The starters, chicken and sweetcorn and wonton soup stood out for their delicate presentation and understated flavours. The soup base on the chicken dish was spot on - neither too thick nor watery with a peppery tang - a satisfying way to start a meal without being too heavy.
The wonton was a highlight, the perfect accompaniment to Chinese tea. Again subtle flavours were the strong point, as they were to be (almost) all night, this time offset by meat parcels with just enough bite to make you want the next.
The strong showing was initially continued into the main dishes. Rendezvous fried rice comes especially recommended, wrapped in a lotus leaf which seems to impart a little freshness into what is often an oily and shirt-worrying accompaniment.
This was bone dry and slightly crisp and all the better for it.
Understatement continued with the king prawn sweet and sour. That’s not to say these dishes were flavourless. The opposite was true, in fact.
The prawns were juicy, the wrapping thin and crispy and the sauce even had some sour ‘spike’ to it.
It was a staple Anglo-Chinese dish carried off in style.
And then something strange happened. I was presented with a deep fried shredded beef with sweet sauce and it completely smashed all that patient groundwork, in terms of flavours, to pieces.
This just wasn’t my thing. I didn’t mind the heat - quite considerable - but the sauce tasted exactly like liquidised candyfloss.
My mouth still felt hot, sweet and sticky walking home, and so strong was its impression on top of a lovely evening out, I felt somewhat abused!
To be fair, this dish is not for everyone. Chinese food is all about variety and acquired tastes.
The whole meal was washed down by several tiny cups of Chinese tea - the most refreshing drink imaginable on a muggy summer night.
The staff were brilliant on what was a busy night. They were quick, polite and apologetic for delays only they realised had happened.
And the bill, under £30, was exceptional value for money.
All in all a very competent Oriental experience, and bar the chilli beef, something of a hidden gem.
Our rating: 4/5 (Reviewed July 2001)
