Review of King Baba, Bath Street, Leamington

Despite the profusion of curry houses in town, few are as dependable as King Baba's (otherwise known as 'the green one'). It occupies a culinary middle-ground between north Leamington swish and the grubbier end of Old Town, and did me and my partner well on this visit.

Dignified, trustworthy staff welcomed us in, and were swift with their service. A couple of tasty poppadoms down, and our main courses arrived before hunger could return. My lamb tikka bhuna masala surprised early on with its strong, almost minty coriander, but resisted being overpowered, eventually rewarding with genuinely flavoursome meat and a well-balanced sauce.

My partner's chicken kushboo looked more like a dessert, its cream and orange hues topped with a cherry, but was light, aromatic, delicate and gently sharp. Our pilau rice served more as texture than taste, but did its job.

With tap water to drink, the meal came in at about £15. If you're looking for an unpretentious but reliable curry, you could do much worse. Peter Ormerod

Verdict: Reliable, satisfying and friendly.